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Charminar:
Cultural Hub
Charminar
is always on the top of the mind of any tourist visiting
Hyderabad. To say that Charminar is a major landmark in the
city is to state the obvious, to repeat a cliché. The great
monument is a synonym for Hyderabad and the pivot around which
the glory and history of the city have developed. To imagine
this 400-year-old city without Charminar is to imagine New
York without the Statue of Liberty or Moscow without the
Kremlin. Built by Mohammed Quli Qutub Shah in 1591, shortly
after he had shifted his capital from Golkonda to what now is
known as Hyderabad, this beautiful colossus in granite, lime,
mortar and, some say, pulverised marble, was at one time the
heart of the city. This great tribute to aesthetics looks
sturdy and solid from a distance but as one moves closer, it
emerges as an elegant and romantic edifice proclaiming its
architectural eminence in all its detail and dignity. Apart
from being the core of the city’s cultural milieu, it has
become a brand name.
Charminar
is a squarish structure with four towers in the four corners
of the square, each of whose sides is 20 metres in length.
Every side opens into a plaza through giant arches, which
overlook four major thoroughfares and dwarf other features of
the building except the minarets. Each arch is 11 metres wide
and rises 20 metres to the pinnacle from the plinth. The
minarets soar skywards by 24 metres from the roof of Charminar.
Each minaret has four storeys, each looking like a delicately
carved ring around the minaret. Some Anglophiles call
Charminar the Arc de Triomphe of the East. From the ground to
the apex, the minarets cover a length of 48.7 metres.
According to Mir
Moazzam Husain, a long time official of the UNESCO and a keen
student of this historic city, “these minarets may even
symbolise the first four khalifs of Islam, but I cannot vouch
for this interpretation with any degree of certainty.” At the
western end of the roof of Charminar is a beautiful mosque;
the oldest in Hyderabad, and the rest of the roof was used as
a court in Qutub Shahi times. Atop the great monument are 45
prayer spaces for the devout where they can offer worship in
an atmosphere unspoilt by the bustle of the city. East of this
space is a spacious verandah with small and large arches in
the middle. The first floor has beautiful balconies from where
one has a fantastic view of the historic city and its later
accretions.
Golkonda: Home of
Diamonds
You
will have to visit the Golkonda fort, 10 kilometres west of
Hyderabad city, to appreciate the majesty and grandeur of the
800-year-old ruins and the architectural glory of those
structures, which have survived the ravage of time and rampage
by Mughal vandals. One of the most magnificent fort complexes
in the country, Golkonda, meaning shepherd hill, was built
consecutively by three dynasties, the Kakatiyas, the Bahmanis
and the Qutub Shahis, the major contribution coming from the
latter. It betrays the confluence of Hindu and Muslim
architectural perceptions of the times. It was the capital of
the Bahmani kings first and the Qutub Shahis later for
sometime, before they shifted the capital to what is now the
old city of Hyderabad. The fort has now become a symbol of the
composite cultural heritage of the 400-year-old city.
The fort area on
the hill is fenced off by a series of high and broad granite
walls built in concentric circles, their defences strengthened
by several moats and drawbridges. Legend has it that Golkonda
was the centre of a flourishing trade in diamonds and that the
world-famous Kohinoor diamond came from this market. The
rugged and time-ravaged ruins throw up fleeting evidence of a
golden age with Golkonda as its essence. The Qutub Shahis
expanded the modest structures built by the Kakatiyas in the
thirteenth century into a fortress complex that occupied the
entire area of the hill and overflowed into the terrain around
it. Its outside wall, around ten miles in length, is designed
as a first checkmate to any aggression. The width of the wall
ranges from 17 to 34 feet broken by 87 semi-circular bastions,
50 to 60 feet high.
Mecca Masjid: A
Pilgrimage
Fifteen graceful arches support the roof of the main hall,
five on each of the three sides. A sheer wall rises on the
fourth side to provide mehrab. The three arched facades have
been carved from a single piece of granite, which took five
years to quarry. More than 8,000 masons and workers were
employed to build this grand mosque. Mohammed Quli Qutub Shah
himself laid the foundation stone of the mosque, when he
failed to find one person who had never missed his prayers.
The king seemed to be the only person who never missed on his
prayers ever since he was 12 years of age.
“It is about 50
years since they began to build a splendid pagoda in the town
which will be the grandest in all India when it is completed.
The size of the stone is the subject of special
accomplishment, and that of a niche, which is its place for
prayer, is an entire rock of such enormous size that they
spent five years in quarrying it, and 500 to 600 men were
employed continually on its work. It required still more time
to roll it up on to conveyance by which they brought it to the
pagoda; and they took 1400 oxen to draw it,” says Tavernier in
his travelogue.
As the tourist
gets past the main gateway and enters a huge plaza, a large
man-made pond of bluish waters greets him. On the edge of the
pond are two stone and slab benches and whoever sits on them,
according to legend, returns to sit on them again. A room in
the courtyard is presumed to house the hair of prophet
Mohammed. At the peak of the minarets flanking the masjid is
an arched gallery and above that a smallish dome and a spire.
Inscriptions from Quran adorn many of the arches and doors.
The majesty of the façade of the grand mosque is somewhat
obscured by huge walls of wire mesh erected to prevent pigeons
from entering the prayer spaces and ruining them.
Birla Mandir:
God’s Marble Home
Industrialists Birlas have built a number of temples of
architectural magnificence all over the country which,
strangely, are referred to as Birla temples and not
Lakshminarayan temple or Venkateswara temple. A quarter
century ago, they built a temple in Hyderabad entirely in
marble brought from Rajasthan and dedicated it to Lord
Venkateswara, known as Balaji in the north. The temple, built
on a hillock called Kala Pahad, one of the Naubat Pahad twins,
lords over its equally celebrated surroundings comprising the
imposing Secretariat buildings, the azure-blue waters of
Hussain Sagar, the serene and halcyon Lumbini Park,
the luxurious Public Gardens dominated by the Asafjahi-style
Legislative Assembly complex and the Reserve Bank of India.
From the highest level of the temple, the spectacle around is
breath-taking, providing a view of the verdure of the city,
the incessant flow of traffic on the Tank Bund, crowds
thronging the administrative complexes of the government, the
newly-built flyovers and the cultural hub of the city Ravindra
Bharathi and the NTR Memorial.
The approach to
the temple is through a lane opposite the Reserve Bank, and
once you trek this small patch, you reach the foot and both
sides of a meandering stairway flanked by ornate banisters. On
the way are several marble statues representing the Hindu
pantheon. The temple manifests a blend of South Indian,
Rajasthani and Utkal temple architectures. Before you reach
the sanctum, several structures beginning with the baroque
canopies at the foot of the stairway, greet you. The main
temple is entered through the four-tiered rajagopuram built in
the garudalaya style of South Indian temples. Beyond the
rajagopuram swings into presence the great Dilwara
temple-style gallery dwarfing nearly every other structure by
its intricately carved detail.
HITECH
(Hyderabad Information Technology Engineering Consultancy)
City: Info Hi-Way
The nascent structures coming up in Madhapur area of the
400-year-old Hyderabad city provide a sophisticated contrast
to the great and ancient monuments and palaces in the Qutb
Shahi capital. It is a consummation of the vision of an
information technology crusader unfolding itself in a healthy
hurry, comparable to the architectural dreams of Muhammad Quli
Qutb Shah. The structures are a two-phase tribute to a
technology that has reduced the world to a global village.
The business like
ambience of the HITECH city is in juxtaposition to its equally
famous and graceful neighbour Shilparamam, an arts and crafts
village, manifesting the simultaneity of two disparate periods
in history, and contributing to the variety and contradictions
in Indian life and tradition. Both the HITECH city and
Silparamam are an evidence of chief minister Chandrababu
Naidu's skills in reconciling his respect for the old with his
desire to inscribe Andhra Pradesh firmly on the roll of
achievers and performers.
HITECH
(Hyderabad Information Technology Engineering Consultancy)
City: Info Hi-Way
The Indian Business School is affiliated to Wharton
School at the University of Pennsylvania, the
Kellogg School of Management at Northwestern University
and the London Business School. IBS shares expertise
and resources with these schools, besides participating in
exchange of students and professors. Wharton and Kellogg
schools have inducted the latest global management techniques
and perceptions into IBS's academic programmes. Faculty
members from these institutions now teach at the IBS after
designing the school curriculum. Academic, residential and
recreational infrastructures provided for students here match
those found at the best business schools in the world. The
campus structures are a blend of modern and traditional Indian
architectures.
State-of-the-art
air-conditioned amphitheatres, library, meeting rooms, coffee
bars and restaurants mark facilities available at the school.
These are in addition to wired classroom conferencing, and
hispeed data communication networks. Services such as banking,
ATM, infirmary, ISB shop, bookstore, documentation centre etc.
are available. The school was inaugurated by Prime Minister
Atal Behari Vajpayee on 2 December 2001, praising it in these
words: "The speedy journey of ISB from concept to completion
was itself a case study of the world class management
capabilities of the new generation of Indians who have
promoted it."
HITECH
(Hyderabad Information Technology Engineering Consultancy)
City: Info Hi-Way
In its fourth year now, the International Institute of
Information Technology has a campus of 62 acres, housing such
internationally known corporate schools like IBM School of
Enterprise-Wide Computing, Signal Tree School of Excellence in
Software Development Methodologies, Oracle School of Advanced
Software Technology, Satyam School of Applied Information
Systems and Motorola School of Communication Technology. A
major aim of the institute is to provide a uniquely broad and
interdisciplinary IT education of the highest academic
quality.
State-of-the-art
air-conditioned amphitheatres, library, meeting rooms, coffee
bars and restaurants mark facilities available at the school.
These are in addition to wired classroom conferencing, and
hispeed data communication networks. Services such as banking,
ATM, infirmary, ISB shop, bookstore, documentation centre etc.
are available. The school was inaugurated by Prime Minister
Atal Behari Vajpayee on 2 December 2001, praising it in these
words: "The speedy journey of ISB from concept to completion
was itself a case study of the world class management
capabilities of the new generation of Indians who have
promoted it."
In its fourth year
now, the International Institute of Information Technology has
a campus of 62 acres, housing such internationally known
corporate schools like IBM School of Enterprise-Wide
Computing, Signal Tree School of Excellence in Software
Development Methodologies, Oracle School of Advanced Software
Technology, Satyam School of Applied Information Systems and
Motorola School of Communication Technology. A major aim of
the institute is to provide a uniquely broad and
interdisciplinary IT education of the highest academic
quality.
Hussain Sagar:
Lake Lustre
Hussain Sagar bridges not only culturally disparate Hyderabad
and Secunderabad, known as twin cities all over the country,
but constitutes a continuum between history and contemporainty.
It was a quiet and placid lake of 24 kilometres built by
Hazrat Husain Shah Wali on a tributary of the Musi during the
time of that great builder Ibrahim Quli Qutb Shah in 1562 to
meet the water and irrigation needs of the city. This was much
before the historic Charminar overshadowed every other
landmark in the city. It is now popularly known as Tank
Bund, a truncated version of its original expanse, and has
acquired trappings and environs that enhance its appeal to
tourists as well as the denizens of the twin cities.
The simple bund
that at one time connected the British and Nizam areas of the
two cities is today a complex of parks, temples, statuary,
sites of entertainment and the capital’s administrative hub,
enriching and at the same time ecologically damaging the
environs of the shrunken tank. The aesthetically built
Secretariat buildings, the NTR memorial, the Lumbini
park, the Hyderabad Boat Club, a flyover nearing
completion add to the attraction of the southern side of the
Tank Bund, while the Secunderabad Sailing Club, the Sanjeeviah
Park and the Hazrat Saidani Ma Saheba tomb on the northern
side enhance its allure for the tourist. Parallel to the tank
bund is what is now known as the lower Tank Bund road, which,
though built to reduce traffic congestion, has now become the
axis of print media activity.
From the southern
side, the lower Tank Bund road is heralded by the famous and
very popular Katta Maisamma temple and close to it is the
sprawling green lung, the Indira Gandhi Park. A new artery
known as the Necklace Road links Lumbini park in Hyderabad
with the Sanjeeviah park in Secunderabad. But the centre of
attraction literally and figuratively is the monolith
Buddha statue in the middle of the ancient lake.
Osmania
University: Epic in Granite
Being one of the earliest centres of learning in the South is
not the sole distinction of Osmania University. Its eminence
is unparalleled in educational architecture in the country and
that attracts as many tourists as its academic facilities
attract students. Five kilometres of drive from the centre of
Hyderabad City brings you through a tree-flanked avenue to a
vast pastoral plaza paying tribute to the 2.5 lakh square foot
imposing Arts College building, nucleus of Osmania
University's 1,500-acre campus, housing a cluster of equally
beautiful and impressive buildings of other faculties.
The Arts College
edifice is a synonym for architectural uniqueness unspoilt by
the arrival of new fangled architectonics. Overlooking the
landscape gardens is this majestic structure reached by two
flights of wide granite stairs converging and stopping before
its awe-inspiring portal that at once is a more eloquent
statement on secularism than any other political manifesto.
This stately granite giant, an articulate specimen of later
Osman Shahi architecture, combines the archetypal
characteristics of the Hindu temple styles with those of the
Saracenic. Inlaid into this unique form are motifs of medieval
Moslem, Arabic, Moorish and even Gothic schools of
architecture.
The Arts College
was originally Osmania University itself and from here starts
a bio-spiritual journey into the world of art and aesthetics
revealing itself in sculptured granite. The visitor is
mesmerised by the innards of the great welcome arch built in
dressed granite, seemingly supported by two soaring, round and
polished granite columns. This vertical oblong stands out from
the facade and rises higher than the sidewalls and wings of
the structure. It is crowned by a trefoil arch, which peaks
higher than the walls of the edifice to either side of the
portal. The arch houses a semicircular vault with stalactites,
resulting in a synthesis of several major architectural themes
of iwan, arch and monumental portal.
Paigah Tombs:
Marvel in Marble
The Paigah tombs, though a recent discovery, date back to the
late eighteenth century and embody unparalleled grace and
elegance in marble. Though these stunning tombs are strewn
over 30-40 acres, tombs of the Paigahas who had married
daughters of the Nizams and their spouses are confined to a
two-acre site. It is this enclosure which is now known as
Paigah tombs. The Paigah nobles were very close to the Nizams
and very powerful and influential, taking care of the security
and defence of the state.
The bonds between
the Nizams and the Paigah nobility strengthened with the
marriage of Fakhr-ud- din Khan with the daughter of the second
Nizam. Fakr-ud-din’s descendants married daughters of other
Nizams and consequently, in protocol, the Paigahs were
considered next only to the Nizams. The tombs are a series of
mausoleums built for these Paigahs and immediate members of
their families. These structures are specimens of remarkable
artistry showing itself off in exquisite inlaid msaic work.
Local people claim that the geometrical patterns of the
sculptural features of these tombs are unique and not found
anywhere in the world.
Abdul Fateh Khan Tegh Jung
founded the Paigah nobility and was rendering service to the
second Nizam, who ruled between 1760 and 1803. The Nizam
conferred on him the title of Shams-ul-umra, meaning the sun
among the masses. Tegh Jung was buried in 1786 at the entrance
of the complex, now known as Paiga tombs. An iron plaque at
the entrance of the complex traces the Paigah lineage and
eulogises the marble magnificence of the mausoleums. The
Paigahs were also great patrons of arts, literature and sports
and commanded the respect of the rulers and the people.
Ramoji Film City, The Dream Factory
Media mughal
Ramoji Rao is making a full-fledged Hollywood film, "Quick
Sand", not in Los Angeles but in Ramoji Film City in
Hyderabad. He has recreated the Arizona army base, the
barracks, the vehicles, and US military uniforms for the army
personnel, and above all, the virtual reality of American
landscape. All this in his world-famous Film City. History
knows Quli Qutub Shah as the founder of Hyderabad City and
posterity will know Ramoji Rao as the architect of the Film
City known to everyone who is familiar with the world of films
and entertainment. Rao's alchemy factory has produced so far
durables like the Margadarsi chit funds, Priya pickles,
Ushodaya films and the Eenadu print and TV empires.
The Film City,
spread over 2,000 acres of land studded with hills, vales and
lakes, has few parallels as both a tourist attraction and
major film-making facility. The city looks like the result of
a collaboration between P.C. Sorkar and Vishwakarma and is
anytime a match to Universal Studios in Hollywood, brick to
brick, gizmo to gizmo. It is a place where reality acquires
all the attributes of magic and incredibility. Today, it is
the filmmakers' first choice as it is a single-window,
press-button facility that opens up an unlimited arena of
creativity for every major and minor aspect of film
production. To quote some directors and producers, the Film
City has "all facilities at one place with latest technology
and advanced equipment." Its brochure highlights its motto as
'make the magic happen.' However, magic happens spontaneously
without human intervention as though it is the main ingredient
of the entire project. Yet, everything is real, from the 50
studio floors, the support systems, outdoor locations to the
high-tech laboratories, the wealth of technology, the
greenery, and the hillscape.
very need of the filmmaker,
imaginary and real, has gone into the planning and execution
of this mega project costing hundreds of crores of rupees.
Everything that goes into making a film, from raw film to
cameras, to processing labs to editing consoles, stage
properties, studio floors and even travel arrangements to
recreation and past-time is available at the mere mention of
it. All this to suit a variety of budgets, whether it is a
shoestring art film or a giant formula film. Ramoji Film City
is an all-in-one boundless complex offering not just
film-making facilities but also customer services, technical
expertise, production support personnel and comprehensive
technical infrastructures attracting the attention of top
film-makers, production houses and leading multinational
advertising agencies. A rapid tour of the Film City complex
vindicates the claim it makes in its campaign that "Ramoji
Film City is geared to service several film and television
productions simultaneously. It is one place in the world where
you can walk in with a script and walk out, leaving despatch
instructions for release of prints or television broadcast
masters." The Film City, in company with the Cybercity, has
put Hyderabad on the map of the world. In short, it is a
film-maker's dream and a tourist's idea of a paradise.
Salar Jung
Museum: One-man Wonder
Salar Jung museum is the fantasy of an art visionary come to
life which waited for its consummation for another great lover
of art Jawaharlal Nehru to visit the historic city of the Quli
Qutab Shahs and inaugurate it on 16 December, 1951 when the
collections were hurriedly assorted and housed in Diwan Devdi,
residence of the Salar Jungs. Every year a million visitors
pay homage to this great repository of art and history. The
priceless collections were moved in 1968 to a new site from
the 100-year-old palace Dewan Devdi of the prime ministers.
Legend has that the museum houses art collections of three
generations of the Salar Jung family, beginning with Salar
Jung, who was prime minister under…
The incomparable
treasures of the museum, consisting only of a part of the
original collection, are an amazing amalgam of antiquity and
modernity, the three Salar Jungs scouring continents for
objets d'art and returning home with shiploads of artefacts.
It is believed that during the colonial period a lot of the
art wealth of the country was shipped to the metropolitan
countries and the Salar Jungs are credited with bringing back
some of it to enrich the collection. The museum represents, in
popular belief, the largest one-man collections of the world.
They reflect the stunning range of time and place of these
treasures, some of them belonging to different civilisations
and dating back to the first century and retrieved from nearly
every nook and corner of the world. However, the chief
architect of this great and magnificent congeries of art is
believed to be Salar Jung III, i.e. Nawab Mir Yusuf Ali khan.
Shilparamam:
Festive Time
If its neighbour is distinguished as a centre of excellence in
IT education, Shilparamam, a contrast in time and substance to
the Cyber Towers, is memorable as a unique achievement in
reviving and preserving centuries-old handicrafts and folk
forms of theatre and dance. On display at the crafts village
is the colourful and magnificent artistry of the countryside
in all its splendour. The setting is exquisitely scenic and
serene, encompassing 50 acres of greenery, millenia-old rock
formations and undulating landscape. The vast expanse of land
of this beautiful village is a gift of the Andhra Pradesh
government to the South Zone Cultural Centre.
The entire project
is conceived as an endless, year-round festival of arts and
crafts showcasing the talents and the skills of the rural folk
from all parts of the country. You enter the village through a
majestic gateway flanked by two life-size terracotta horses.
In sections specially provided for them, you can see craftsmen
chiselling raw wood into objects of everlasting value,
sculpting wonders from stone, harnessing metal into stunning
images of gods and goddesses and weaving magic in cotton, silk
and gold thread. These live demonstrations of artisanship
bring back to the visitor pictures of a bygone era of Dhaka
muslin, Kondapalli toys, Bankura horses, gudda-guddis of
Punjab, temple arts and a motley of Indian arts and crafts
forms which have survived the assaults of both the industrial
and cyber revolutions. In short, a visit to the village is an
unforgettable spiritual experience for the visitor. |